Day 19 June 7 Najera to Santo Domingo de la Calzada

13.68 miles 32,114 steps. 90 degrees

It was a walk to be remembered today . Happy peregrinos all around! Gorgeous fields of wheat, wine, and chard.  

We are happily ensconced in la hospitaleria Cisterciense in an immaculate room in a remodeled totally modern monastery . Greeted by nuns, food prepared by nuns with a special candy unique to this place. 

Lunch occurred at a golf club restaurant in Ciruelena and proved to have some of the best tapas around. 

Our bodies are strong and stronger.  I no longer have knee or hip issues and I can relax and sleep without my arsenal of therapies. How does walking do this? 

Side by side.... Catch the tune? 

The grapes

Kilometers that is

The famous red earth of Rioja

3 peregrinos- one from Germany , one went to Evergreen, and David is moving to Redmond from Portland.  We'll see then in town later! 

Lunch at the golf course

Craig does it again! 

Santo Domingo de la Calzada has a strong Camino history but I'm not going to write it here. 

After dinner, we went to mass at the cathedral.  How we're all these huge ornate churches built? Every civilization , every religion: built on the backs of some poor souls.  And what is returned ? 

We watched the priest take the last gulf of wine out of the communion chalice!!

A lovely concert ensued after mass. Churches have the best acoustics. 

Early to rise tomorrow. And sans coffee too.  No Internet working here. Will post tomorrow. 

Concert in the church- have recording in iTalk.

Day18 June 6 Navarrete to Najera

11 miles 25,472 steps

No birds getting these cherries! 

Grapes. This doesn't really do this area justice. Red earth. La Rioja.

No taxi for us!

90 kilometers to Burgos! 

Laundry service!

It's been a good day!

Off to find some food, cash machine and explore a Najara.   

We are so sad about the shootings in Seattle. Simultaneously this morning I heard about it from a friend via email and our host told us about it via the Spanish news.  Of course we had the conversation about the insanity of allowing firearms; Spain does not.  

We walk. 

The monastery and cathedral here. 

This encryption tells the story of a woman who died in childbirth.  

Day 17 Logrono to Navarrete

8 miles. 19,707 steps

Next town, next nap, next wine, next meal. I'm up to the wine.  How do I describe this moment? 

An article I just read:

http://www.nytimes.com/2012/03/11/travel/thin-places-where-we-are-jolted-out-of-old-ways-of-seeing-the-world.html

It's 4:30. Craig found a Gillian Flynn book in the room so he's locked in there determined to finish it because there's no way he'll carry it. The weather is perfect. The place we are staying came highly recommended on Trip Advisor and do far they are always spot on. For45 euros we have a lovely room, and access to a large sitting room and then this tile patio with umbrellas , plants, tables , chairs, lounges.  Tonight the proprietor will prepare for us a 3 course home made meal with wine of course for 12 euros each. 

The walk was short today so we don't have the usual busted up need to recover feeling.  

We haven't seen the usual flock of peregrinos here because this is an on between stop, most people choosing to walk the next 10 miles to Nagera all in one swoop. We're taking two days. 

Everything is about wine in this region. The owner just told me that the wine he served is from a small winery that he and some friends own. It's not sold in stores but rather to select customers because they don't produce large quantities. Works for me.  

Not much else to say from this happy peregrina. Yesterday was a rough moment in our journey personally, physically, and in relation to each other. We have the gift of time right now.  We move through. And find the grace as it presents itself.  It's a remarkable journey. 

The Church here is huge and ornate with three knaves, all gold. Our host told us that this was a very wealthy town in medieval times. The nobles lived up high and ventured to and fro via tunnels. The Poor people tithed to the max to support the church.   Same story over and over, yes? 

In Logrono, the breakfast we didn't consume!  The hotel is proudly run by women only!! The director is a woman as well they proudly told me! 

A modern Camino mural along the way

To Burgos we go!

The ruins of an ancient pgrim's hospital and the fancy winery in the background. 

Mi peregrino favorito

Looking down on Navarrete from the high point where the castle once stood . We hiked up while our packs stayed in the room!! 

We just had a conversation with a Belgian man and a Dutch man who walked FROM THEIR HOMES, separately for 76 days so far.  They have met up here and there but each walks his own pace. "If everyone walked the Camino we would have no more wars." 

Across from us in the square a group of young people sit: from Germany, Portigal, Italy, US. Laughing and becoming fast friends. 

I guess the night's not quite over!

 

Day 16 June 4 Logrono

We have a rest day today. We strolled through the park in the afternoon, took naps, came out around 5:30 and stopped for a couple beverages and tapas and now it's almost 8PM and we're waiting to have a small dinner when the dinner hour begins. 

Craig and I both started listening to a book that was recommended to us by Sherwin.  It's not an easy listen but both provocative and evocative. We listen and then talk; we have an abundance of time for that.  The book is by J. Hollis Through the Dark Woods. A search for meaning in the second half of life. 

Now don't think we've gone all serious.  Not hardly.  We continue to poke fun and this just provides more material!! 

I'm aware when we are off the Camino of how many choices we are confronted with moment to moment . What to eat, where to eat, what to buy.... 

I feel that my phrase defining last year's Camino still holds true: humble empowerment. 

Finally! Camino by horseback! 

 El Mercado

 Hotel and the fountain + Craig

Day 15 June 3 Viana to Logrono

6.5 miles. 16,071 steps

9.5 total including wandering around

It's 3:15 We're in a lovely hotel room with streets of tapas bars and a lovely square with a fountain surrounding us. I just had lunch of white wine and a salted mushroom quinoa salad and a bath in a big tub. Ah, the life of THIS peregrina at THIS moment. 

We should call this Camino, Camino On the Fly.  We decided last night that we would take the bus into Logrono, have a day to look around and continue on. That changed this morning when we decided to walk into Logrono. It was a pleasant 6 mile walk to our hotel which is located 2 minutes from the tapas street.  We'll stay 2 nights and explore this college town. 

Observations:

People know Seattle now when they ask where we are from. Why? The seahawks?

There is a prevalence of smoking.  Not indoors since the EU bans that.

No tipping- it's not customary nor expected.  Food service people are adequately compensated. 

These towns are safe and safer. Children play. Women bike/walk alone. 

It is still light at 10:30pm

No one even starts to think about eating until 8:30 at night and then the tapas bars and restaurants are open until after midnight. Life takes place in the streets.... Not families:)

Breakfast in Viana before leaving for Logrono.

Symbol of the Camino

Beautiful walk into town

Asian Peregrinos cover themselves from head to toe to protect from the sun, gloves, scarves over faces. 

Nice place for some  relaxation. A king sized bed- a first! 

Padron peppers

Cheesy delights

Calle Laurel

No comment

Day 14 June 2 Los Arcos to Viana

12.5 miles 29,497 steps

Another day, another 12 miles.  We left about 7:45 which seems to be our pattern.  Breakfast ensued at this lovely albuergue about 4 miles down the path. 

It was here that we met a South Korean woman and two Canadian women from Vancouver with whom we spent many evening hours with once we all arrived in Viana. 

The weather was perfect with some cloud cover but enough warmth to keep us comfortable. Once again the landscape was gasp inducing. 

Leaving Los Arcos

We had the chance to take a short cut which I regretted due to its ski slope-like quality. After a certain amount of whimpering on my part, I live to tell about it. 

Today felt easier. The body did not speak so much and thus freed up the mind to wander. We talked earnestly about this Camino for us.  

 We realized that we really had not trained adequately to be prepared for the strenuousness of crossing the Pyrenees on the first days and the intensity of walking day after day.  Craig's prolonged cold and my busted knee disrupted our training schedule.  That coupled with perhaps a false sense of confidence from last year's Camino experience contributed to a tough start. The newness last year and the push to make it to Santiago probably helped with overcoming the physical discomfort. 

This year is shaping up differently. We have the time. We are letting the path, the places of interest, and our desires determine how far we walk and where we stay. 

For example, tomorrow we will get to Logrono, find a hotel, drop our packs and explore the city at a leisurely pace. 

That means that once again we will meet up with different people. 

I think our Korean friend was a little sad that we were parting ways but still we didn't exchange contact information; instead just hugged, said buen Camino and perhaps we'll meet again. Same with Mario. And the women from Vancouver. 

We did eventually get into the church for mass with a special blessing from the priest for each peregrino including a sprinkle if holy water. 

I'm not sure why today felt easier. Perhaps we are getting in shape. I know that the messages from home with news and words of encouragement really mean a lot.  Gratitude's a big deal:)

Day 13 June 1 Estella to Los Arcos

14.5 miles 33,877 steps

A day's rest made a big difference.  Today felt almost good. The landscape was impeccably beautiful- wheat fields dappled with poppies, olive groves, and the endless vineyards.   The path was solid, rolling along, not very hilly. We stopped once for some lunch and a couple other times for short rests and arrived at our hotel at Los Arcos by 3:30 with plenty of time to recover for tomorrow. The sun shines and it looks like good weather for the week. 70s. 

We're figuring out our pace. Slowing down, doing less miles, more rest days to enjoy our time and the towns in the way. 

Here's the famous spot where peregrinos can choose wine or water!  It was 8:30 am when we passed by.  Note: wine from this Navarra region is excellent. 

A view along the way.

The roses hide the rough spots!!!

This man managed the little church and invited us in and then stamped our Compostelas. 

This is the church we visited. 

Just a hint at the beauty of today's walk.