Day 25. June 13 Portomarin to Eirexe

12 miles 25,072 steps

85 degrees 

Pension Eirexe

Could it be all about the weather?

Walking today, over the same path we walked last year, how different it all seems bathed in sunshine with farmers not planting their fields but bailing the hay. 

We are still walking - at our own pace. We stopped early today for it is hot and there are many peregrinos on the trail. We found the sweetest pension in a tiny hamlet. Sunshine, breeze, rest. By stopping here, we deviate from the  usual track so there are just a few of us. Nice way to continue. Camino on the fly! Glad we don't make reservations in advance. 

These are the thoughts I was having while walking today.

Again like last year I think about the fallacies inherent in dualistic thinking. I asked Crsig if he had a sense of how far he could walk if he had no choice. He had no clue. That's the thing . We don't know our limits. There is strength and perseverance that develops resilience and empowerment in body and spirit.  Yet, there's wisdom in knowing when to stop, to seek assistance, to rest. 

The physical /mental- so entwined. The Camino again teaches this.  I must be a slow learner. 

And then I recalled someone years ago telling me that the best gift to give kids=model of healthy adult relationships. I've broadened this meaning to include relationship with self. 

My Camino, My pace, My listening

My time My prayer - I'm a lucky girl

As we approach Santiago, how will I feel when it's over?

Friends and family pull us back. G'children tug even harder. Little ones. Thankful for wifi for frequent contact- 

Will we return ? So many do. We just met a couple from California who are walking the entire Camino. They seem even older than us. It's their third time. 

The Camino now in June is more

crowded, feels more like a social event than an inner journey. We find our balance. 

It's a lot of fun  to meet different people, even if there are many, many Americans. 

And when we get to Santiago, once again our sins will be forgiven and we will have clean slates.  And once again, I'll confess my sin of not flossing for this trip!!

Misty morning walk

Another way to travel

Quintessential Galicia 

Craig's gem 

Country cemetery

Eye candy 

Craig found his calling.  Of course the señora thought he was so cute!! 

Day 23 June 11Burgos to Sarria by train

Met North Dakota clan

Met Phil and Kathy! 

Back in Galicia

Day 22 June 10 villa Franca to Burgos!

21 miles 39,749 steps

We made it!!!  We're in Burgos completing the Camino!  170 miles this year.  We just kept walking and walking.  

Tomorrow we take the train to Sarria and from there, hopefully life will allow us to walk the last 100 kilometers into Santiago before we depart for home.  

We discovered today that people over 60 ride the rails in Spain for 40 percent discount.  

Too exhausted to write much about the day except that CC kept the energy up at the end by singing marching songs in his style. He would NOT give me the camera!! 

Monument to the Spanish Civil War

A different type of Albuergue 

Las mochilas en Burgos! 

Day 21 June 9 Belorado to Villafrance

7.68 miles 17,785 steps

Hot, windy

Today oh today!!

We slept in. Then we dumped our packs out on each bed andscrutinized their   contents for all unnecessary and heretofore unused items. Seems no matter how mindfully we pack, a moment arises where we feel we are carrying useless weight.  Admittedly, it is seemingly much easier to rid our packs of this weight than our bodies but we're working on that as well. 

The results?

Almost exactly the same for each of us: 5 pounds sent away to our hotel in Madrid to be collected at the end of this journey. 

The bag to go. 

Kilos

Adios!! 

How delightful to lose 5 pounds. My feet are happy and when my feet are happy...

We reflected that this paring down affected us more than physically- a lighter spirit prevails. 

Along the Camino, fountains abound and most of them have drinkable water, especially for peregrinos to refill water containers. Here we encounter Craig dunking his necktie to be worn close to the skin to cool body temperature. They really work.  A great invention that pilgrims of old did not possess.  

Today we stay in an Albuergue but in a private room with all the comforts of a converted 12th century pilgrims hospital.  

Above is a photo of the multi-jetted shower with a molded seat- perfect for sitting and washing clothes while recovering from the rigors of the day.

Not exactly a river or a washboard but stomping them clean seems quite effective.  

The view from our window

On this second Camino we've made several new discoveries. One of them involves a new and more efficient way to stop to pee along the Way. In the past, in order to save my knees, I would have to take off my backpack.  Now, Craig simply holds it up and takes the weight off and I'm good to go.  

It's the little things. 

20 miles to Burgos- and we will have completed the entire Camino from St. Jean Pied de Port to the ocean- Finesterre. But let's not count our chickens. 

Craig talking to someone from South Dakota.  He grew up in Woonsocket, about 15 miles away from Wessington Springs and his mother lives in Wessington Springs. Go Spartans! 

Dinner tonight with Katie (again). Her friend Jill walked separately and took a longer day. The other couple are reporters for Minnesota Public Radio and the gentleman in the foreground is from Germany and has already walked 1000 kilometers starting at home and following the Le Puy route in France.  A lively mix of people and conversation, enhanced by bottles of wine. All for $12 euros each. 

Will we see each other again? Who can know? 

Day 20 June 8 santo Domingo to Belorado

15 miles

We left at 6:45 today, BC time, one of the first peregrinos out of the blocks.  Coffee didn't happen until we were 5 miles down the road.  Addicted? No doubt. Instant relief from all aches and pains. No kidding.  

Another gorgeous day as we left Rioja and entered Castilla y Leon.  

We we're both running on fumes for the last 5 miles but .... here we are at 3Pm to begin the evening routine. Showers, rest, and about 6, head out to eat and see some of the town.  

In for the night now and CC is remarkably watching a Mariner's game via Slingbox. 

Had a delightful dinner at the Albuergue.with two young women, one a mathematics student going to study in Moscow in the Fall and another going to work for General Mills in  Minneapolis. 

Too tired to write more but they sustain my hope that each generation just gets better and smarter and wiser... And funny too. 

Leaving the hospederia. 

Early morning light. 

I'm planting more poppies. Fields and fields here. 

 Adios Rioja. 

Evening light. Stork nest on the top. 

Day 19 June 7 Najera to Santo Domingo de la Calzada

13.68 miles 32,114 steps. 90 degrees

It was a walk to be remembered today . Happy peregrinos all around! Gorgeous fields of wheat, wine, and chard.  

We are happily ensconced in la hospitaleria Cisterciense in an immaculate room in a remodeled totally modern monastery . Greeted by nuns, food prepared by nuns with a special candy unique to this place. 

Lunch occurred at a golf club restaurant in Ciruelena and proved to have some of the best tapas around. 

Our bodies are strong and stronger.  I no longer have knee or hip issues and I can relax and sleep without my arsenal of therapies. How does walking do this? 

Side by side.... Catch the tune? 

The grapes

Kilometers that is

The famous red earth of Rioja

3 peregrinos- one from Germany , one went to Evergreen, and David is moving to Redmond from Portland.  We'll see then in town later! 

Lunch at the golf course

Craig does it again! 

Santo Domingo de la Calzada has a strong Camino history but I'm not going to write it here. 

After dinner, we went to mass at the cathedral.  How we're all these huge ornate churches built? Every civilization , every religion: built on the backs of some poor souls.  And what is returned ? 

We watched the priest take the last gulf of wine out of the communion chalice!!

A lovely concert ensued after mass. Churches have the best acoustics. 

Early to rise tomorrow. And sans coffee too.  No Internet working here. Will post tomorrow. 

Concert in the church- have recording in iTalk.

Day18 June 6 Navarrete to Najera

11 miles 25,472 steps

No birds getting these cherries! 

Grapes. This doesn't really do this area justice. Red earth. La Rioja.

No taxi for us!

90 kilometers to Burgos! 

Laundry service!

It's been a good day!

Off to find some food, cash machine and explore a Najara.   

We are so sad about the shootings in Seattle. Simultaneously this morning I heard about it from a friend via email and our host told us about it via the Spanish news.  Of course we had the conversation about the insanity of allowing firearms; Spain does not.  

We walk. 

The monastery and cathedral here. 

This encryption tells the story of a woman who died in childbirth.