Day 11 Puente de la Reina to Estella

15 or more likely 16 butt busting miles

35,353 steps

I declare that this might be the most physically difficult day of my life. We realized that our previous Camino started at the meseta, the flatlands. Every day even beyond the Pyrenees we climb climb climb, up and over, into a village, down down down and do it all again.  And every step is worth it. 

But today I hit the wall. Lunch helped, especially the first of many I hope freshly squeezed orange juices!

I realized something important today. Important to my well-being .  I had subscribed to a blog called Americans on the Camino.  People share every nuance of their experience including but not limited to close up photos of their disgusting blisters .  When we would find wifi I'd read all these experiences and they we're seeping into my psyche and unconsciously framing MY experience.  It was Fox News of the Camino.  So I I friended this group on FB and mail feed.  It was a freeing moment.  Meanwhile I've been reading (on the plane at least) The Circle by Dave Eggers which looks provocatively at information transparency in our culture from all sides.  It makes for great Camino conversations. 

The young people I spoke about in Pamplona . " it's mom and dad."

We have plunked ourselves down in a lovely thriving town and since we are feeling exhausted and physically wrecked and since our hotel room is so cozy and the proprietors so friendly, we looked at the map and tomorrow's climb and said, "why not?" So we sit here now at 7:30 drinking vino and cerveza and going to take the day off tomorrow!! 

Praise the guides of the Camino. We just returned from a dinner event that lasted hours. We met two women from Ireland who are hijing to Logrono.  Then our former buddies, the mother and daughter team and THEY are staying an extra day here as well. Oh how we validated each other's exhaustion! And how we laughed. And our dour waiter. I took it upon myself to get him to smile at least once: it happened twice. 

Names: Judy and uh oh... 

Viva la feminista!

We missed a lovely town setting for our lunch so here we are eating whatever we found to eat in our backpacks!  It happens. 

Some school children created this

Where did this come from?

Little hotel San Andras - town of 15,000

Estella !

Day 10 Pamplona to Puente de la Reina

34 510 steps. 15 miles 

Hotel Jakue

Gave kineseotape to Sarah

Some days you gotta dance.

I found out something new about Craig. He puts the toothpaste on his finger and THEN on his toothbrush. To save toothpaste.

And he takes such very good care of me. 

Day 9 May 29 Pamplona

IIt's noon. All we've done today is read and watch some BBC and CNN while under the covers. I have tremendous appreciation for not moving.   Rest. Rest . The Spanish saying: que bonito a hacer nada and despues, descansar.   

There's a whole beautiful city to explore, maybe.  

My immersible hot water heater works and I'm having a cup of Starbucks instant.  Not to worry- I've already had a cafe con leche into which I dunked a croissant- a pleasure from my youth I do not ordinarily indulge in.  

The weather will improve later and we'll explore then . No worries. We're in Spain where dinner does not begin until 9 and it's still light out at 10.

How's the body holding up? This 67 year old body? So far, fine. While we're walking, one foot in front of the other, I don't think about age, about the passage of time . It's an altered state- those moments.  But then a conversation ensues and the number may come out:

"No, you can't be 67".  A compliment? An achievement ? Luck? 

Question: what does 67 look/act like anyway?

And then thoughts can turn to how much time is left? That stuff .  We decided that we don't need to disclose age unless it's necessary to be truthful. 

Withhold judgment of ourselves as well. Big Camino lesson

We had news from home today. Some troubles, some grief, some joy.  And that is the stuff of life. We are not walking to escape. We love our friends and family.  How I appreciate the immediate circles of support that swoop in when someone is on distress. We walk for them.  I felt a little homesick today. 

We keep meeting a delightful young gang of 5 or 7! They met on the Camino and are traveling more or less together. - from Germany, Albuerque,  Canada , Montana - they hurt too and they enjoy the comfort of us, mutual roles, "my mom will feel better when I tell her we're with you!!

Sauna - oh yes!  In this hotel.  Love it. 

View from our window

Cafe Iruna 

Ok. I wasn't going to post this but CC said that if I am using my voice on this blog, then I must tell the story.  I had the idea to take this photo of the Men's bathroom in Cafe Iruna to be able to say, "this is the bano that Hemingway peed in", to add to the historical significance

of the site.  As I situated myself to take. the photo, I accidentally snapped a photo of a man coming out. Ohhhh I thought I was in deep doo doo but nothing happened. Here's the photo:

Day 7 May 26 Burgette to Zabiri

14.55 miles 34,152 steps

Downhill over mud and rocks- steep - that was most of today. Our shoes and poles do us well.  

Lost shoes.  Get this: Phil of Kathy and Phil left to hike to Roncesvailles and stay in the Alberge there. Seems someone there stole Phil's very nice Solomons.  They called Istvan who graciously came and picked them up, drove them to Pamplona to buy a new pair and then back to Roncevailles so they could commence walking.  

We passed the Corazon Puro today on our walk to Zubiri and he came out to greet us. Old friends already!  

We arrived in Zubiri and began a search for a place to stay. It's a town of 200 serving a nearby factory. 

We quickly found a pension for 35 Euros with a warm hearted woman running it.  I asked if there was a hair dryer and she brought me one and then launched into a conversation about how many things get stolen so she can't leave them out. One would like to think that everyone walking the Camino would leave it better and accept hospitality graciously.  Oh well, it's just more opportunity to practice suspending judgment. 

As the woman said, there are mostly good people in this world. 

Dilemma of how far to go. What to do after we get to Burgos.  We're still undecided about where we'll go, which path, how far, etc. it's fun not knowing and having the ability to decide on the fly.

 

The weather - think Pacific Northwest.  There you have it, complete with slugs and exquisite beauty.

Last time I walked for Beth. I took photos of shrines of the Madonna to send her . She loved them.  I dreamt of Beth last night. She was radiant. So I have decided to suspend disbelief and make her my Camino guide.

The Cafe here is bubbling over with peregrinos enjoying the after walking camaraderie with beer, wine, and tapas! 

People here from South Korea, New Zealand, and all the usual places.  

Our enchanted forest

Istvan and Barbara's Corazon Puro

In Viscaret

The only show in town!

My oh my. White bean soup like none other! 

Day 8 May 27 Zabiri to Pamplona

12.84 miles. 30,132 steps

Working backwards, it is 7:30 in the evening and we are luxuriating in our posh Pamplona hotel Maisonnave in el centro of this lovely city. For 2 days we will leave our peregrino status and be touristas!  Our laundry is drying, our selves clean, Voltaren cream rubbed on sore legs and in a while we'll venture out for some Basque food. No hurry- the Spanish don't eat until 9. 

Our room

The view from our window

We left around 8:30 this morning, an hour later because Carmen of the coffee shop offered to find us a good hotel in Pamplona. Why this oferta we'll never know .  As we were leaving we kissed and she told us that if we need anything, just give her a call. 

I contemplated this kindness for quite a while. Meanwhile, the weather is warm and sunny so here's Craig changing into his shorts with glee! 

Here's a pile of pilgrims stopping for a lunch break.  Loving the sunshine. 

We've shared time and food with this couple and enjoy them. Her foot is very sore so they stopped early today to rest. Perhaps we'll catch each other again. It happens - with no planning . 

We walked through this ancient town outside of Pamplona. 

The typical Basque dessert of the region. Will need to walk .... And then some

Pamplona live at 10PM.  Dinner is happening. Overheard by a young peregrino we met earlier today: I want to live here.  Who wouldn't? 

Estafeta - great strolling, restaurants, shops. The running of the bulls happens here.

Day 6 May 25 Valcarlos to Burgette

IInteresting: the language choices at the cash machine here: Spanish, French , Basque, Catalan , Galician , English, Japanese 

10 miles. 22,307 steps

Today we crossed the Pyrenees, uphill almost all the way. 

Staying at the Turismo Rural Don Jauregui de Burgete.  

It was a considerable hike today. The scenery was spectacular, not unlike the Pacific Northwest though scrub oaks and beech trees mingled with evergreens.  We saw only one other peregrina from New Zealand on the trail; most people take the high route which would have provided two days of uphill steep grade. This was enough.  We rejoiced when we reached the downhill road into Roncevailles .  Arduous.  

We had a bowl of caldo with a splash of some brandy in it before we returned to the Camino to walk to today's destination , Burgette.   Now it's 8:30 and the day is ending.  The room is toasty, our clothes are washed and drying , we had a lovely dinner of sopa, tortilla, pimientos grilled, and some tasty torta.  

In between, we sat at a bar and had olives and a cana and wine with a mother - daughter team who are staying actually in Hemingway's room at the other Casa rural in town. We chatted for an hour, easily . Meeting people and engaging is one of the Camino's pleasures. 

I've been listening to the Sun Also Rises and wouldn't you know- the part about him going trout fishing in Burgette is on as we are here.  

Our walk today

Calling ahead for a hotel reservation. CC says I look line Woody Allen!!

That's kilometers!

Witches we're burned at the stake in these woods.  In the 1500s.

The White Cross

Warm, full, content. 

Day 5 May 24 St. Jean Pied de Port to Valcarlos

7.5 miles 17,390 steps at a snail's pace! 

The official Camino Frances starts here in the Pyrenees Mountains in France, Basque Country.  Istvan , our host drove us here from his hotel along with Phil and Kathy and we all started out together . 

Since Craig and I immediately changed our minds about how long we wanted to stay walking on the Camino, now thinking about continuing past Burgos, we bought new peregrino passports! 

We walked with Kathy and Phil to the junction where they took the Napoleon route, the most strenuous uphill climb and we opted for the allegedly easier low route. Since we took the off road detours, we had a good share of ups and downs as well.  They will stay in Orisson tonight and we perhaps will meet back up in Roncevailles tomorrow.  

Since we didn't train much before we left, these first two days in the mountains at high altitudes should suffice to get us in shape. 

At this moment, we've assumed our post walk positions at the hotel- horizontal, twin beds, Craig listening to his happy tunes playlist, me writing and recording. We'll both be napping before long in that endorphin enhanced post walk moment . Later, we'll explore, eat and drink, get some Ibuprofen cream, and see what the evening brings. 

Happy, so happy to have returned to the Camino. 

Saying good-bye to Istvan 

We have emerged from our reverie of sleep and are now sitting on a cafe having a cana (Tilda over the n) and vino Tintoretto with tapas of olives , fresh bread and cheese with membrillo and I forgot the English word for this kind of jam!  A group of men with berets sits beside us playing a card game, laughing boisterously and eating potato chips. Reminds me of the WMS boy posse:)

A national event begins tonight and the entire nation, albeit Europe will be watching. It's the European soccer championship and both playoff teams are Spanish. It takes place in Portugal and starts at 9 PM. 

I can't think of anywhere else I'd rather be. 

Beautiful weather today. Big rain tomorrow . No importa. 

No rain in sight!!