Day 30 June 18 Santiago

I Sleeping! Waking up and strolling to the garden to have coffee. Savoring the contrast to our walking days. CC sleeps since coffee does not speak to him.  

At 11AM , we made our way to the cathedral for the pilgrim's mass.  Sat in silence, well only got "Ssshhhh-ed" a couple times . Soosie joined us in our pew so elated to have made it to Santiago. A week or do ago she was distraught with a tendon injury and not sure she could go on. We gave her some Voltaren cream and Advil. She'd been walking 20-30 miles a day from St. Jean. "You saved my life," she said. That was an easy one. 

Soosie- just moved from London to Slovakia. 

The cathdral was SRO as it us every day. 

We experienced the botofumiero again. We have a 4 minute video of this extravaganza. 

The original reason for this giant incense burner was to exorcise the stench from the Middle Ages pilgrims who hadn't washed with any regularity. 

After the mass, we strolled around and came across Phil and Kathy 2 who had just moved into their apartment in Santiago where they will spend 2 weeks. 

About 3 hours later we returned to our room for a siesta . Can't miss siesta! 

And then evening rolled in. We engaged in some shoe consumerism and then found an outdoor restaurant with a big flat screen tv to watch the Spain vs. Chile World Cup .  Defeat. It was an emotional time for the crowd . Some delightful men sitting next to us shared their outstanding bottle of wine with me as we chatted through the game. 

Unique creamy gazpacho

More ribs than CC could eat. 

However, at the end, when Spain was losing, one of the (Galician) men declared shaking his head, "Quiero independencia!"  We all laughed with understanding. 

Tomorrow we take the train to Vigo and Cangas for a 3 day beach retreat.  But that's another story. 

Roberto, part of the duo who run the Costa Vela.  He remembers us from last year and graciously arranged our coastal vacation.  It's worth it to come to Santiago just to stay here!!!  Of course, that's after all the personal growth and saving the world effort:)

 

Day 29 June 17 O'Pedrouzo to Santiago

12.5 miles 

2:30 PM 

84 degrees

Costa Vela Hotel - again

We have arrived in Santiago. 

Some people go straight to the  Cathedral ......

How to describe? I find the words less accessible this year. Perhaps I've said what needs to be said last year?  It is not a rerun but every bit as deeply experienced and joyous and satisfying and... Oh all those adjectives!! 

To our surprise, the walk in was not crowded. In fact, the folks at the Compostela office said that this week showed a lull. Instead of the usual 1500 more or less walking in every day, there we're less than 1,000.  Unbelievable none the less. We didn't photograph much since we have this part from last year.  Just took it all in. I felt stong and energetic. For the first 7 miles. And then I commented about this to Craig and how I could see how people walk thousands. You get in shape and then simply keep walking. And then. Literally and just then I began to struggle. My feet hurt, I was hot, my thighs burned, my knee spoke.  There are no coincidences. 

This body and mind is ready for a rest and knows it is coming.  So very interesting how that works.

In any event we made it. Craig was his usual forge ahead self but just to show his regular human side, he is still sleeping as I write this on Wednesday morning sitting outside in the garden sipping a cafe con leche grande! In a few minutes we will wander to the square and find a seat in the cathedral for the pilgrim's mass. 

Having a destination. Is crucial. Making it all the way here, regardless of where one started is integral to the experience regardless of whether one believes in the story or not.  Sacred exists , even I. The ordinary.  That so many people from all over, all ages, all walks of life gather together is a force unto itself. 

Last night as we ate dinner (Tuesday night. I write this on Wednesday), we chatted with a woman, a young woman, single mom with her 9 year old daughter who works in a restaurant serving peregrinos. She put it well. She moved here because she loves the atmosphere here. Pilgrims arrive.  They meet people they have met along the way.  Embrace with the warmth of old friends. Share food and drink, sitting together.  Communicating in all languages, with the Camino's common focus overriding all differences.  That suspended judgment magic.  For the time being. 

The reset button. Time out of mind as B. Dylan would say.  Craig and I realize how helpful this walk is for our relationship. And as I write this, he appears so off we go to celebrate mass and see if any of our pals show up!! 

More later. 

El Camino

The original Facebook

Day 28 June 16 Arzua to O'Pedrouza

13.32 miles 31,163 steps

Pension Pedrouzo- same as last year! 

Right now I'm indulging in breadsticks in our AC room with Gunfire at the OK Corral on the TV. This alternates at the will of Craig with the Mundial and tennis.

We left earlier today and had a great walk with several shady stops for refreshments.  Funny thing, we met another couple who we're interesting to talk with- another Phil and Kathy, this time from California. We'll catch them in Santiago. They've rented an apartment for 2 weeks there.  They've walked before so they know about some places we can explore during our extra days. 

Speaking of walking before, there is a term for this: Camino fever

It appears rampant. 

While walking through the eucalyptus groves today we met a Polish family who walked the primitivo with their 7 year old daughter. I have a video.  She required a lot of attending, game playing, and candy for motivation her dad told me. But they we're into making sure it was a positive , playful experience.

This Galician gentleman is 94 years and one week old! 

Each garbage can as we walked along had a phrase from Imagine inscribed on it. Selective graffiti !

Geraniums growing out if a palm. 

Eucalyptus forest- not native. We did recall this! 

And then there was Sophia from Florida who had walked the Norte route by herself who shared her sandwich with me for no good reason when she heard they were out of bread. We chatted with her about the priesthood and whether priests we're required to report violent crimes or acts of abuse as counselors are. Anyone know about this? 

Day 27 June 15 Melide to Arzua

9 miles 21,153 steps

Santiago Apostle right across the street from Pension Rua where we stayed last year. 

A walk in the park- 8 miles

Perfect weather

Walking like EMDR

Walking alone- difficult to sync

Slept late

Albuergue with semi-private rooms

35 Euros

Washing machine

Arzua- cheese

No memory of being here before 

Can't make any sense of the news

Where have all the peregrinos gone? 

Social life here takes place outside.  People together in parks, bars. Is loneliness and isolation a cultural issue? Old and young mix here. Children can hang out in bars. Babies in strollers out late. Grandparents around. Need more thinking about this.  

We attended this cultural performance last night. 

Have videos. 

Food! Potatoes, onions, and garlic. Lots and lots of potatoes. Fries with every meal. 

The Sunday market

It's like one big treasure hunt! Look for the yellow arrows! 

Storing corn. They are atill used. 

Family run business. 8 years old and she runs the restaurant! 

Dinner: cheese made here in Arzua.  Well deserved after all the cow pies we walk through!  Padron peppers.  

25 miles to Santiago! 2 more walking days. 

Even though over 230,000 pilgrims walk yearly now, in the Middle Ages, there were even more.

Up early again tomorrow.  14 miles. 

Day 26 June 14 Eirexe de Ligonde to Melide

14.42 miles 33,856 steps

Hospedaje de Parrilados de Molino

Up at 6am this morning and out the door at 6:30 before the dawn.  Walking in the cool of the day with a breeze blowing. We arrived by 1:30 and now we soak up the relaxation for the rest of the day.  The weather is perfect, the town is in between the ones that are the usual route so we appear to have avoided the crowds walking into Santiago. 

Signs of economic growth are all around and the Brierley Guide will be hard pressed to keep up with the numbers of new establishments catering to peregrinos of all kinds.  

Delightful owner of last night's room

Ready to be transported to the next Albuergue.  

Sharing the road. 

Same place, new year

A couple things I've learned along the way :

1. The Dalai Lama gets his yearly check-ups at the Mayo Clinic. 

2.  What MAMILs are:

Middle Aged men in Lycra

About Craig

He's a dream machine of a Camino Companero and here's why:

Massages my feet

Accepts my bathtub floor flooding behaviors

Carries my backpack up the stairs

Holds it like a coat for me to put on

Has immense patience for my pace walking since I appear to make frequent stops for all the little adjustments along the way- hat on, hat off, bathroom stops , photo stops 

Picks up my poles every time they have a habit of falling over

Laughter!!

"He's a rock , " my mom once said. 

And that is the translation of my father's Jewish name

But we will dismiss any Jungian analysis- I'm leaving that mumble jumble on the Camino

And finally, at the end of a 14 mile trek, when I am flat out not moving, he dances a little jig around the room. 

I am a lucky girl. 

Day 24 June 12 Sarria to Portomarin

 14.81 miles 32,377 steps

Familiar in a general sense. Enchanted land. Language. Slugs are back! 

Different time of year. Very hot now. Rainy before. Vegetation has grown up. Gardens bountiful. Many more peregrinos.

Good to have a destination 

Woman injured walking 30+ k every day. 

Shin splints/tendinitis 

Early misty morning. Seems like the Northwest. 

All is provided. 

Another way to travel

Oh Galicia! 

Until the temperature reached 90 and the shade was gone.... 

Tempting at times 

A pathetic amount of food! 

 A tour bus arrives.  The Camino means different things for different people. 

Peregrino lunch stop. It's busy! 

The Camino means different things for different people

Oh Galicia. You have my heart. 

Meeting Phil and Kathy for dinner soon. 

And here they are with Chuck from Spokane. We became fast friends but who knows if our paths will cross again?

Day 25. June 13 Portomarin to Eirexe

12 miles 25,072 steps

85 degrees 

Pension Eirexe

Could it be all about the weather?

Walking today, over the same path we walked last year, how different it all seems bathed in sunshine with farmers not planting their fields but bailing the hay. 

We are still walking - at our own pace. We stopped early today for it is hot and there are many peregrinos on the trail. We found the sweetest pension in a tiny hamlet. Sunshine, breeze, rest. By stopping here, we deviate from the  usual track so there are just a few of us. Nice way to continue. Camino on the fly! Glad we don't make reservations in advance. 

These are the thoughts I was having while walking today.

Again like last year I think about the fallacies inherent in dualistic thinking. I asked Crsig if he had a sense of how far he could walk if he had no choice. He had no clue. That's the thing . We don't know our limits. There is strength and perseverance that develops resilience and empowerment in body and spirit.  Yet, there's wisdom in knowing when to stop, to seek assistance, to rest. 

The physical /mental- so entwined. The Camino again teaches this.  I must be a slow learner. 

And then I recalled someone years ago telling me that the best gift to give kids=model of healthy adult relationships. I've broadened this meaning to include relationship with self. 

My Camino, My pace, My listening

My time My prayer - I'm a lucky girl

As we approach Santiago, how will I feel when it's over?

Friends and family pull us back. G'children tug even harder. Little ones. Thankful for wifi for frequent contact- 

Will we return ? So many do. We just met a couple from California who are walking the entire Camino. They seem even older than us. It's their third time. 

The Camino now in June is more

crowded, feels more like a social event than an inner journey. We find our balance. 

It's a lot of fun  to meet different people, even if there are many, many Americans. 

And when we get to Santiago, once again our sins will be forgiven and we will have clean slates.  And once again, I'll confess my sin of not flossing for this trip!!

Misty morning walk

Another way to travel

Quintessential Galicia 

Craig's gem 

Country cemetery

Eye candy 

Craig found his calling.  Of course the señora thought he was so cute!!