Tuesday, May 27, 2014

Day 7 May 26 Burgette to Zabiri

14.55 miles 34,152 steps

Downhill over mud and rocks- steep - that was most of today. Our shoes and poles do us well.  
Lost shoes.  Get this: Phil of Kathy and Phil left to hike to Roncesvailles and stay in the Alberge there. Seems someone there stole Phil's very nice Solomons.  They called Istvan who graciously came and picked them up, drove them to Pamplona to buy a new pair and then back to Roncevailles so they could commence walking.  
We passed the Corazon Puro today on our walk to Zubiri and he came out to greet us. Old friends already!  

We arrived in Zubiri and began a search for a place to stay. It's a town of 200 serving a nearby factory. 
We quickly found a pension for 35 Euros with a warm hearted woman running it.  I asked if there was a hair dryer and she brought me one and then launched into a conversation about how many things get stolen so she can't leave them out. One would like to think that everyone walking the Camino would leave it better and accept hospitality graciously.  Oh well, it's just more opportunity to practice suspending judgment. 

As the woman said, there are mostly good people in this world. 

Dilemma of how far to go. What to do after we get to Burgos.  We're still undecided about where we'll go, which path, how far, etc. it's fun not knowing and having the ability to decide on the fly.
 
The weather - think Pacific Northwest.  There you have it, complete with slugs and exquisite beauty.

Last time I walked for Beth. I took photos of shrines of the Madonna to send her . She loved them.  I dreamt of Beth last night. She was radiant. So I have decided to suspend disbelief and make her my Camino guide.

The Cafe here is bubbling over with peregrinos enjoying the after walking camaraderie with beer, wine, and tapas! 

People here from South Korea, New Zealand, and all the usual places.  


Our enchanted forest

Istvan and Barbara's Corazon Puro
In Viscaret


The only show in town!


My oh my. White bean soup like none other! 

Day 8 May 27 Zabiri to Pamplona

12.84 miles. 30,132 steps

Working backwards, it is 7:30 in the evening and we are luxuriating in our posh Pamplona hotel Maisonnave in el centro of this lovely city. For 2 days we will leave our peregrino status and be touristas!  Our laundry is drying, our selves clean, Voltaren cream rubbed on sore legs and in a while we'll venture out for some Basque food. No hurry- the Spanish don't eat until 9. 

Our room


The view from our window

We left around 8:30 this morning, an hour later because Carmen of the coffee shop offered to find us a good hotel in Pamplona. Why this oferta we'll never know .  As we were leaving we kissed and she told us that if we need anything, just give her a call. 

I contemplated this kindness for quite a while. Meanwhile, the weather is warm and sunny so here's Craig changing into his shorts with glee! 



Here's a pile of pilgrims stopping for a lunch break.  Loving the sunshine. 
We've shared time and food with this couple and enjoy them. Her foot is very sore so they stopped early today to rest. Perhaps we'll catch each other again. It happens - with no planning . 

We walked through this ancient town outside of Pamplona. 


The typical Basque dessert of the region. Will need to walk .... And then some


Pamplona live at 10PM.  Dinner is happening. Overheard by a young peregrino we met earlier today: I want to live here.  Who wouldn't? 


Estafeta - great strolling, restaurants, shops. The running of the bulls happens here.